1. Remove existing exhaust, all existing aftermarket and factory exhaust brackets. **On baggers you will need to remove the Right side floorboard in order to adjust the pipe into the correct position**

2. Remove factory exhaust gaskets.  Replace with Part #17048-98, Screamin’ Eagle Performance Exhaust Gasket kit.  *These are required and provide a correct fit and ensure no gasket material blocking the port*

3. Remove transmission side cover (if your model has this cover). Remove two lower transmission housing bolts.

4. Install the mounting bracket to the transmission housing using the factory hardware. Torque to 13-16 ft-lbs. (Ensure the bracket is not cocked or caught on anything, it should be flat on the transmission housing) Make sure any factory standoffs are removed.

5. Move factory exhaust flanges and retainers to new exhaust system. *If installing a Ceramic Black pipe, leave protective film on the exhaust so it does not get scratched*

6. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of the oxygen sensors and install them into the new head pipe.  **18mm to 12mm oxygen sensor adapter may be required on some models.**  All of our Pipes run 18mm O2 bungs so you can run an auto tune system with Wideband o2 sensors. 

7. Using stock flange nuts, carefully install the header assemblies onto the motorcycle. *Do NOT tighten, just start them a turn or two.*

8. Slip the collector onto the headers. You may have to use a soft/rubber mallet on the headers to slide them into the collector.

9. Position the muffler and headers so that it clears all points of the motor, frame and controls. **Remember, this is a 3 part system so it will require some adjusting to make everything line up**

10. Start the bracket hardware and snug down *Do not tighten them yet*

11. Check fitment and clearance around all critical areas; this is your opportunity to adjust the system by twisting and rotating.

12. From back to front, tighten down the exhaust system, ensuring that nothing moves as you go.

13. Install supplied exhaust springs once everything is tight.

14. Check all fasteners, fitment, and wiring. This is a great opportunity to make sure everything is clearing how it should 

15. Good practice with Raw stainless pipes is to get all of the oils from your hands off before start up so that it does not stain.  You don’t need to go crazy! Acetone or something similar with a shop towel works great for this.

16. Start the bike and allow it to idle until the pipe is hot. Allow the pipe to completely cool.  This will ensure that the coating is completely set up on black pipes and it will temper raw brushed pipes so they keep that nice flashy stainless color!

17. You’re done!  Go forth and disturb the peace!

Important Notes:

– A stainless steel pipe is a great indication of how your bike is running. A pipe that turns black or is unreasonably hot is an indication there is a tuning issue.

– We often get asked what to do if you burn something onto a Raw pipe.  The best solution is to brush the affected area until it is free from whatever is stuck to it.  We use RED Scotchbrite pads here. Go perpendicular with the grain of the pipe, not lengthwise. 

This is a great way to renew the finish of a well-used pipe; Stainless can always look brand new with enough elbow grease!

-Some Bagger models will require you to shim the Floorboard.

Billet end cap muffler: These mufflers are rebuild-able and serviceable. They are assembled with 1/4-20 Stainless hardware. Be very careful and make sure you use thread locker on them when re-installing, and always tighten by hand to prevent stripping. 

We recommend packing these mufflers with 4 Stroke fibreglass style packing, if desired. For the most sound attenuation pack the muffler completely full, if you put it in a little less it will just give the muffler a deeper, rolling, grumbly sound though still be nice and loud!

-These mufflers will need to be repacked with miles as the fiberglass style packing is a consumable that will get used up over time.